Choosing Glasses Frames for Your Face Shape

The basic idea: contrast and balance

The most widely used principle for choosing frames is to pick a shape that contrasts with the lines of your face. On a round face, angular frames add definition; on a square face, round frames soften the look. Frames that repeat your face shape tend to emphasise that feature even more. Still, this is a starting point, not a hard rule. Size, colour, rim thickness and the impression you want can make the same shape look completely different, so use the principle to narrow things down, then try frames on to decide.

Working out your face shape

In front of a mirror, pull your hair back so the whole outline of your face shows, then see which is widest, your forehead, cheekbones or jaw, and how long your face is compared with its width. Taking a straight-on photo with your phone and tracing the outline makes it easier. Most faces don't fit one type neatly but mix features of two or three, so go by the most prominent one. Common categories are round, square, long, heart-shaped and oval.

Frames that tend to suit each face shape

These are common general guidelines. Use them to narrow down your options at first, and make the final call in front of a mirror.

• Round: angular rectangular frames or slightly wider frames add structure
• Square: round or oval frames, or thin rims, soften the angles of the jaw
• Long: frames with some depth and generous width break up the length of the face
• Heart-shaped: frames light on top and heavier at the bottom balance a wide forehead and narrow chin
• Oval: most shapes suit, so prioritise proportions that match the size of your face

Getting the size right

Size goes wrong more often than shape. Frames that are too big don't make your face look smaller; they swallow it. Frames that are too small look cramped.

• Width: the ends of the frame don't stick out far beyond the sides of your face
• Your pupils sit near the horizontal centre of the lenses. If they drift to one side, the width is off
• The top of the frame sits at about eyebrow level or slightly below, without hiding your brows
• The arms curve naturally behind your ears without squeezing your temples
• The inside of the arm shows lens width, bridge width and arm length, so use the numbers from a pair that fits you well

Colour and material

The same shape can give a very different impression depending on colour and material. Black frames look crisp and neat, while brown or tortoiseshell frames look softer and warmer. Clear or pale frames look light and relaxed. A common guideline is that gold or brown tones suit warm skin and hair, while silver or grey tones suit cool colouring. As for material, metal frames look fine and light, while thicker plastic frames have more presence. If you have a metal allergy, be sure to check what the parts touching your skin are made of.

Checking comfort

Even good-looking frames end up in a drawer if they're uncomfortable. Wear them in the shop for a few minutes and try the movements below. Most discomfort can be fixed by an optician adjusting the nose pads and arms.

• The glasses don't slide down when you look down
• After a few minutes, taking them off doesn't leave deep marks on your nose
• There's no pain or pressure behind your ears
• The bottom of the frame doesn't touch your cheeks when you smile, and your lashes don't brush the lenses
• From the front, the frames don't tilt to one side

Think about your prescription and lenses too

Frames are only finished once the lenses are in. With a strong short-sighted prescription, the lens edges get thicker, so the bigger the frame, the more that thickness shows and the heavier the glasses become. In that case a moderate size usually looks and feels better than a very large frame. Rimless and half-rim frames also leave the lens edges on show. Progressive lenses, which let you see near and far through one lens, need a frame with some vertical depth. Decide on lens type and thickness with your optician, based on your prescription.

Common mistakes and cautions

Choosing from photos or trends alone often leads to frames that feel too big or small on your actual face, so always try them on and check both the front and side view. If you buy online, compare the numbers with your current glasses and check the exchange terms in advance. Another common mistake is getting new frames but keeping a prescription that's several years old. If you keep getting headaches, eye strain or dizziness while wearing glasses, the problem may be the prescription or lens centring rather than the frame, so get re-tested by an eye doctor or optician. For children's vision problems or sudden changes in vision, see an eye doctor first.